With the VS Angels finally expanding their representation, one would assume the issue of plus-size inclusion in the fashion industry is on the mend. However, skimming through Vogue’s runway gallery reveals a stark lack of diversity across sizes. With about 0.8% of plus-size models walking for the Autumn/Winter 2024 collections, it is clear that the inclusive efforts seen around 2020 are declining (Maguire et al., 2024). These numbers are even more disappointing when considering male or nonbinary plus-size models who reflect a minority of those currently employed.  

Decades have been dedicated to vocalizing the need for fashion made with the general public in mind. Pieces premiered during fashion weeks are almost exclusively made in the smallest sizes for the smallest models. Runways set the tone for the clothes we see trending; a lack of runway designs for plus sizes translates directly to a lack of plus-size designs in stores. Again, this disparity is exaggerated even further when searching for masculine or androgynous plus-size trends. Verge models Devin Newsom and Ayanna McClendon pulled from their own experiences shopping for plus-size clothing to help highlight these disparities. 

Even if you don’t necessarily care about the fashion seen on the runway and in the media, it impacts the options you have access to. Design trends and aesthetics tailored to a specific body type exclude the average person from embracing that style. When you walk into your average clothing store, it’s usually fairly obvious what’s currently popular– fast fashion does a great job of keeping up with the trend cycle. However, these average stores typically carry a limited number of sizes, once again excluding those that wear larger sizes.  

It might be easy for some to overlook this issue, referring to stores that only sell plus sizes to justify the lack of other popular brands. If you’ve ever listened to someone speak about the plus-size store options, you’ll quickly realize it’s incomparable. Newsom describes the plus size racks as typically having “weird differences” consisting of “ugly florals and busy patterns” compared to designs sold in smaller sizes. Mainstream plus-size brands like Lane Bryant and Torrid are notoriously unfashionable and often display poor quality for their inflated prices. (Woitach, 2024). In short, people who wear plus sizes not only have a disproportionately harder time finding on-trend clothes in popular brands but they are also expected to shop at exceedingly lower standards.  

The real question in all of this is: where do we begin? When there are so many inequities in the fashion industry facing those who wear plus sizes, it’s hard to know where to start. A few years ago, it might’ve seemed like we were going to face this issue once and for all. However, the resurgence of certain aesthetics has worked against us. With the runways glorifying the long, extremely thin bodies once more, there’s an increase in body-based fashion throughout social media. So, how can we combat this?  

For many, the solution seems clear– designing for larger sizes. McClendon and Newsom both show that people who wear plus sizes do not need to be confined to a certain style, and they can be “that b*tch.” We don’t necessarily want to see the exact same pieces sized up; that’s a big contributor to the phenomenon in which larger sizes are of poorer quality. We need designers who understand the variety that bodies come in and create pieces tailored to the average person. Runway shows should demonstrate an ability to design for everyone, which means representing a variety of body types between models. People who wear plus sizes don’t need to feel discouraged from engaging with the trends; they just need to be provided with the pieces to do so.  

Recently, there’s been a massive rise in the popularity of trends that romanticize being thinner, reminiscent of the ‘90s and 2000s. In extreme cases, the body becomes a part of the trend. Many people are fans of the Y2K-McBling aesthetic that’s circulating TikTok and Pinterest right now. However, several valid concerns are being raised about its idealization of a hyper-thin body type. The low-rise bottoms, micro skirts and tiny tight tops are almost exclusively designed and marketed for smaller sizes; therefore, those are the only sizes we see wearing these trends. Newsom highlights the specific issue that most places carrying these trendy, plus-size pieces are “low quality like Shein.” If these pieces were designed and produced for larger sizes of the same style and quality while mindful of the diverse customer base, we could see much wider participation.  

Other streetwear trends pull from some of the same elements. We’ll often see people wearing low-rise baggy jeans or cargo pants and small shirts for more of a ‘90s grunge look. The style during that era and its current imitations are like the Y2K aesthetic in that it often excludes plus sizes. These trends are taken to another level when people begin to romanticize the unhealthy lifestyle choices behind them. The current “Brat” trend is concerningly similar to the ‘90s glorification of a certain stimulant, and some dark romantic or gothic aesthetics can idealize an emaciated and sleep-deprived appearance. We can all agree that these are inherently dangerous standards to aspire to. Yet many people are unable to separate the style from the lifestyle, which adds an entirely new layer to the potential harm.  

Another trend that the market is capitalizing on currently is the popularity of athleisure or athletic loungewear. What’s more comfortable than something with a range of motion you can exercise in? The appeal of athleisure is not lost on most of us. However, people who wear plus sizes are once again at a huge disadvantage when it comes to finding high-performing athletic wear. Something like working out, which should be a welcome activity for all, becomes increasingly more exclusive when people above a certain size cannot find suitable clothing. Popular athletic brands like Lululemon took an embarrassing amount of time to start carrying plus sizes; just to deliver sub-par quality. When these are the brands setting the tone for the market, we are almost always set up for disappointment regarding the range and quality of plus-size options.  

 Again, these are not instances of a style being unsuited for larger sizes; this disparity is due to a lack of accessibility and representation. By not making a trend accessible to a group of people, it’s essentially communicated that it isn’t for them when the beauty of a fashion trend is its ability to excite a variety of consumers. McClendon reflected on occasions where shopping with friends was made more difficult by the lack of size ranges in popular clothing stores. Similarly, Newsom was frustrated by the difficulty of matching clothes with friends of varying sizes. The size someone wears does not determine the style they’re drawn to nor should it dictate where they shop.  

Some brands have also been called out for upcharging plus-size clothing options because of how limited the choices currently available are. This can look like companies that specifically supply plus-sizes charging more than the average commercial-size brands. Another way stores perpetuate this distinction is by charging more for their larger sizes than for a smaller size of the same item. The strategy of businesses capitalizing on a lack of representation is nothing new. It has been a contributor to this matter for as long as the fashion industry has been around.  

Part of what makes this issue so compelling is how deeply it’s rooted in our society. It had to be brought to the public’s attention that there was a key demographic missing from the fashion industry. Newsom emphasizes the style that is often imposed on those who wear plus-sizes “forces people to age themselves” by only providing them with unflattering options. There have been efforts to enhance the visibility of this contrast, but this is a cause that will require attention for the foreseeable future. Until trends are conducive to all body types, runways represent all of their potential customers and people who wear larger sizes all have access to high-quality clothing, this industry will not be as welcoming as it might try to present.  

In the meantime, some people work hard to bridge the gap between fashion for smaller and plus sizes. It can be extremely frustrating trying to find affordable, good-quality and stylish brands if you don’t fall into the commercial size range. Finding and supporting small brands that meet these needs can help people who wear plus sizes embrace their personal style while encouraging other brands to expand their customer base.  

Fashion Brand Company is one website that has an extended range of sizes in their incredibly unique, trendy pieces. If you’re into more outgoing and exciting pieces, this is a brand that is absolutely worth exploring. Eloquii is a little more budget-friendly, especially in their Elements line. If business casual and daily basics are what you’re looking for, Eloquii has a variety of high-quality styles and sizes available online. High-quality athleisure that represents a range of sizes through their inclusive designs can be found on the Girlfriend Collective site. Last, but of course not least, FAYT the Label provides more options for good quality, fashion-forward basic pieces in a wide size range. If none of these are quite what you’re looking for, there are countless more recommendations across social media. The point is, while there is still extensive progress to be made, wearing plus sizes does not seal your fashion fate.  

As an industry, we have improvements to make in every direction regarding the inclusion of plus sizes. To the future designers reading this, I implore you to learn from the mistakes of your predecessors. To those who read this and found yourselves nodding along in frustration, you’re not alone in being fed up. The lack of representation and dedication to designing for the plus-size community is an issue that deserves more attention and, in turn, a change.  

 

 

 

 

 

References 

Bray, S. (2022, February 15). The Return of Y2K Fashion is Harmful to Young Women. Trinity Tripod. https://trinitytripod.com/opinion/the-return-of-y2k-fashion-is-harmful-to-young-women/ 

Hasotkar, P. (2023, February 2). Let’s talk about the intrinsically Fatphobic Y2K fashion and its return. Medium. https://pranjalihasotkar.medium.com/lets-talk-about-the-intrinsically-fatphobic-y2k-fashion-and-its-return-6b55e111be28 

Nast, C. (2024, March 11). The Vogue Business AW24 size inclusivity report. Vogue Business. https://www.voguebusiness.com/story/fashion/the-vogue-business-aw24-size-inclusivity-report 

Norman, D. (2023, January 31). Street Style Has A Fatphobia Problem. Can It Be Fixed? Www.refinery29.com. https://www.refinery29.com/en-us/2023/01/11264446/plus-size-street-style-fatphobia 

Ruben, H. (2023, May 15). Nonplussed: Fashion’s surprisingly big problem with gender and size. Fashion Dive. https://www.fashiondive.com/news/inclusive-sizing-gender-problem/650271/ 

Woitach, O. (2024, August 12). Body Positive Alliance. Body Positive Alliance. https://bodypositivealliance.org/blog/bridging-the-gap-the-need-for-inclusivity-and-quality-in-plus-size-fashion